Norfolk Island

15 – 22 November 2024

Norfolk Island is the eroded remnants of a basaltic volcano active over 2 million ears ago.

Little is know about the first Norfolk Island settlers, the Polynesian seafarers who settled between about 1150 and 1450. A marae and village has been excavated behind Emily Bay which includes stone tools, the discovery of bananas growing in Arthur’s Vale in 1788 and the wreckage of a canoe at Ball’s Bay.

Norfolk Island was uninhabited for some four centuries when Captain Cook, in his 1774 voyage aboard HMS Resolution landed near the simple stone monument at Cook’s lookout, looking down at Duncombe Bay. They were the first Europeans to set foot on Norfolk Island.

On 6th March,1788 just week after the first fleet had arrived in Sydney Cove, a small group of people, 15 convicts and 7 freemen, under Lieutenant Phillip Gidley King’s command began Norfolk Island’s First European Settlement. An outlying settlement was formed in what is now Kingston flourishing for a quarter-century before being again abandoned for a decade until 1825.

The settlement was re-opened and used for some 31 years as a place of secondary punishment of convicts from the colonies and Britain. Although it had a reputation for brutality, there were also bold experiments in reformation to prepare convicts for re-entering society, especially under Commandant Alexander Maconochie. The convict Georgian settlement in the Kingston Area is now a world listed heritage area that includes gaol ruins, pier store, boat shed, crank mill, cemetery and beautiful historic houses on Quality Row.

While HMAV Bounty never visited Norfolk Island, nor did any of her crew, it was the decisions made in the depths of her once coal-filled hull on that fateful night in 1789 that have created todays Norfolk Island. The Pitcairn Island community was born from the mutineers of HMAV Bounty when Fletcher Christian and William Bligh came to blows and the mutineers formed relationships with the native Polynesian women. William Bligh was set adrift from the Bounty with 18 supporters sailing 4000 miles to the Dutch trading port of Cooping in Indonesia, without maps and charts.

The end of convict transportation came at the same time as Queen Victoria’s gift of Norfolk was made to the descendants of the Bounty mutineers on Pitcairn Island. In 1856, the whole community of 194 people, descendants from the Bounty, landed at Kingston aboard the Morayshire. They arrived in cold, wet blustery conditions to a recently abandoned penal settlement that was set aside for the ‘worst of the worst’. Ten years later the Melanesian Mission was established on the Island.

Kingston & Arthur’s Vale Historic Area was inscribed on the World Heritage List as one of the eleven Australian convict Sites in 2010.

In 2015 The Norfolk Island Legislative Assembly was disbanded and the Norfolk Island Administration became a Regional Council and in 2016 the island was integrated into the Australian Taxation System.

The predominant language on Norfolk is English, however you will hear many speak the local language, Norf’k, that is a mix of English and Tahitian. The language was spoken by the Pitcairners and is still in use today.

Norfolk Island does not have a rubbish collection, residents take their own to the local tip

Exploring Norfolk included:

tour around Kingston UNESCO World Heritage Site, includes the 1829 Government House, the Old Military Barracks and officers quarters, the New Military Barracks, the Commissariat Store, the elegant Quality Row houses that provided quarters for military and civil officers, the archaeological remains of the two convict gaols, and the perimeter walls and archaeological remains of the prisoners’ barracks, the Protestant chapel, the original gaol built for barrack accommodation, the remains of the new prison and its perimeter walls, the blacksmith’s shop, lumber yard, water mill, the crankmill, the salt house, the windmill base, lime kilns; the landing pier and sea wall
an early morning BBQ breakfast, watching the birds soar the clifts and standing beside the simple stone monument at Cook’s lookout and looking down at Buncombe Bay
a visit to Colleen McCullough’s home ‘Our Ynna’, her priceless collection of artefacts gathered on travels all over the world with her husband and her book research library
a progressive dinner through homes showcasing the island’s rich culture and history, authentic home-cooked meals and local traditions
the commandants’ dinner of factual, fun theatre as we were taken on an entertaining journey back in time with stories of how the convicts were treated by sadists and reformers including a chilling recall of one of the infamous rebellions
a bounty fish fry at the scenic outdoor location on the Western Side of the property ‘Orn Dar Cliff’ had stunning views over the ocean as the sun set. Fresh fish was prepared, the local way and accompanied with a range of seasonal island dishes like ‘Pilhi’ savoury banana slice, ‘Ana’ special sweet potato mach with local herbs, coconut bread, coconut pie and included a performance by the Baunti Byuutis dancing group
high tea at one of the beautiful historic houses that are part of Kingston’s UNESCO World Heritage Site, included an assortment of canapés, delicious sweets, loose-leave tea
a glass bottom boat adventure exploring the unique marine life, coral gardens & tropical fish inside the calm crystal waters of the lagoon, Emily Bay. Sue Prior’s website about Norfolk Island’s reef grew out of a love for my daily swims and an increasing fascination with the lives of the fish and other critters that I witness as I go about it. I received an underwater camera for Christmas 2019, so these pages are a direct result of that.
learnt about the colourful history of the Pitcainers and their descendants at the Norfolk Islands Pitcairn settler’s village, the only remaining settler’s property. Visiting the magnificent homestead and gardens including many of the traditional crops, riding in Norfolk’s first tour coach, a blacksmith forge, a WWII army hut and museum of memorabilla
360 degree cyclorama painting surrounding you with impressive and realistic artwork bringing to life the history of the Bounty mutiny and the Norfolk Island people
bounty folk museum with room after room jammed packed with memorabilia antiques, pictures and bric a brac. Films
the island markets where I found postcards at the newsagent across the road and a post box after enjoying a quite moment to write them
the shipbuilders did an amazing job with the ship-like vaulted ceiling of St Barnabas Chapel that was built as a a ships hull, marble floor, carved wood, pearl shell inlays and stained-glass windows. The mission operated between 1867 and 1920. During that time thousands of students from the Pacific Islands came to the Mission College to live and study, living apart from the rest of the island’s population, and being mostly self-sufficient. In 1920 the Mission headquarters were closed and moved to the Solomon Islands.

Friday 15 November

Sydney – Norfolk Island flight and transfer from Norfolk Island airport to Paradise Hotel & Resort followed by an easy walk to our welcome dinner at Hilli Restaurant & Café where we enjoyed fresh produce and locally sourced seafood.

Saturday 16 November

An island overview on a half day island tour introducing us to Norfolk’s beautiful scenery, rich history, heritage and way of life that included the historic Kingston, the convict buildings, Emily Bay the most popular beach on Norfolk, the Melanesian Chapel and views from Cascade and Anson Bay.

Sunday 17 November

We started our day visiting the Norfolk Islands Arts & Craft Market checking out island souvenirs, locally made handcrafts, jewellery, artwork, and much more.

A fabulous lunch at Norfolk Islands first and only winery, Two Chimneys Wines. The property is part of the original grant of land following the arrival of the Pitcairners in 1856.

Dinner was an Island Feast at the Paradise Resort, a 4 course menu inspired by local dishes with a Tahitian influence with seasonal produce that was fresh and locally sourced.

Monday 18 November

We began today experiencing the history of the Pitcairn Island Settlers with a visit to the Pitcairn Settlers Village. We saw a film about Norfolk Island followed by a ride in Norfolk’s first tour bus that included the gracious original Bailey homestead & gardens, a stroll through the barn, the oldest working forge in the Pacific, an Ex New Zealand Army hut with war-time memorabilia, the dairy and out-buildings, and the museum filled with items of nostalgic and historic interest.

This afternoon, we ventured down to Emily Bay for the Christian’s Glass Bottom Boat Tour within the lagoon of Emily and Slaughter Bay. Norfolk Island has the Southernmost coral reef in the world and we viewed some of thirty different species of coral and some of the 120 different species of colourful fish in the crystal-clear waters of the lagoon.

We completed our day with a Progressive Dinner to Island Homes, a 3 course meal progressing to different Norfolk Island family homes, meeting the local people and sampling some of the Island dishes hearing all about their families history, and day to day life.

Tuesday 19 November

Our Colleen McCullough Tour gave us a glimpse into her life as a world-renowned author of 27 books including “Tim”, “The Thornbirds” and “Morgan’s Run” and half way through another title at the time of her passing. Colleen called Norfolk Island home for almost 36 years and with her husband, Norfolk Islander, Ric Robinson, they created their luxurious hideaway and home, “Out Yenna”.

In the afternoon we enjoyed a luxurious High Tea in one of the historic Georgian buildings on Quality Row, learning more about the history of the area.

Our dinner today was an Island feast and local entertainment, the Island Fish Fry Dinner after watching the sun set from the exclusive property ‘Orn Daa Cliff’ on Norfolk’s beautiful western coastline.

Wednesday 20 November

We started the morning off with the choices of a stroll through Palm Glen Reserve or a more energetic 3.5 km walk through scenic Mt. Bates, the highest point on the island to Captain Cook Monument or a sleep in and bus ride for our Clifftop Breakfast BBQ. The monument stands where Captain James Cook and his officers landed in 1774 and has spectacular views of the coastline.

On our way back some of us asked about being dropped off at the Bounty Museum which was also a good place for high speed internet followed by a leisurely walk back to our accommodation. This lead to finding out about Government House being open to the public this afternoon. Following another spontaneous decision it was great to have an enjoyable walk around the grounds and parts of the interior of Government House.

We then made our way to the Fletcher’s Mutiny Cyclorama, bringing to life the history of the Norfolk Island people and their connection with the infamous mutiny on the ‘Bounty’. The cyclorama included a shop of local artists works.

Our dinner tonight was the Commandants’ Dinner & Show, a night of entertainment and a factual and fun dinner theatre that was an interesting way to learn about Norfolk’s history. The show included Commandants’ stories about the notorious Convict Settlements on Norfolk Island and how the convicts were treated by sadists and reformers alike.

Thursday 21 November

This morning, we set off on the Convict Settlement Tour, learning about the World Heritage Listed Kingston, the Polynesians who came 900 years ago, the islands First and Second settlements, how Norfolk became home to the descendants of the infamous Bounty mutiny and a walk through the historic cemetery. Our tour included stories about the first settlers and the associated facts and legends associated.

Our Farewell Dinner was at Bailey’s Restaurant a beautifully restored house in the iconic centrepiece of Governor’s Lodge.

Friday 22 November

After breakfast it was time to say farewell to Norfolk Island.